Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Wilton's Music Hall in London

I stumbled upon this old music hall in the east end of London thanks to a documentary on BBC TV. It is the world's oldest surviving music hall. The TV program featured its history and restoration. I would not have known about this treasure otherwise.

Location in Graces Alley, the hall could be easily overlooked. It stands in a row of residential buildings. 


This place was first known for its pub called "The Prince of Denmark". The earliest owner of this pub was in charge from 1730-49. Information I have obtained from a booklet about the history of this place suggests that the pub existed til 1812 under that Prince of Denmark name. Later it was also known as "The King of Denmark" and "The Mahogany Bar". This was the first pub to install a mahogany bar and it set the style for later British pubs.

Later on under the guidance of proprietor John Wilton (from 1850-1868) the focus of this building switched from pub drunkeness to classy entertainment. A small music hall was built in 1853 behind the "Prince of Denmark" pub. In 1859 he built a larger music hall across the back of 4 houses he bought in Graces Alley. The music halls were always under scrutiny every year to make sure that the building was up to code (had fire exits) and provided the appropriate entertainment for its type of license. (There were licenses for theaters, music halls and concert rooms. Each license had strict rules for providing a specific type of entertainment.)

The music hall had a number of owners after Mr. Wilton up until 1881 when it ceased to provide entertainment. In 1877 a fire destroyed much of the building. It was repaired and reopened in 1878. The building was abandoned in 1881 and it is not clear what if anything happened there between 1881-8.

A group of Wesylan Methodists purchased the hall in 1888 and made it into a mission center. It lasted until 1956. The Methodists sold the building to the Coppermill Rag Warehouse in 1957. This business recycled dress manufacturers "seconds" into wiping cloths for ships' engines. 

The building was also used to shelter families during the Blitz, provide meeting spaces for striking dock workers and those opposed to the fascist movement in Britain.

Here is a poster showing significant dates in the hall's history.

In the mid 1960s the London County Council planned some new development in the area around the music hall. The council was persuaded to save the building from demolition. From 1972-1997 serious efforts were made to raise money to restore the hall. Some repairs were made after that, but money ran out. Fortunately the hall received a Heritage Lottery Fund grant to make further repairs. The repairs have been described as "conservative", meaning that they wanted to retain the look of the building from 1859. The first phase of restoration started in 2012. During the time of repairs shows were still happening in the hall. Repairs and shows are still ongoing simultaneously. 

I attended a free concert in the Mahogany Bar featuring a local jazz group called "Daj Dook". They play music that is influenced by the 1930s style of Django Reinhart. They call it "gypsy jazz" - a modern fusion of swing and gypsy music. The four players (on violin, guitars and double bass) are an international bunch - British, Iranian/Irish, French and Argentinean. I really enjoyed the upbeat rhythm of the music. It is very lively and virtuostic. You can check them out at www.dajdook.com or on their Facebook page. There are links to video clips here and on YouTube. 

At this concert I was sitting by a lady who was a regular at Wilton's and seemed to know a fair amount about the history of the place. During intermission she kindly offered to show me around. Unfortunately the main music hall was locked, but I got a peek at the upstairs. Right now those upstairs rooms are an extension of the bar. There are tables and chairs set up to relax and sip on your drink. The setting is bare on purpose. The idea is to restore the rooms so they are functional. Apparently these rooms were once dwellings as seen by the various hearths in the rooms. In doing some research I found out that #s 1-4 Graces Alley had upstairs apartments that were rented out for many years.

Here is a photo of the entrance.

Here is a photo of the Mahogany Bar where the concert took place. The musicians found their corner of the room to set up.

I discovered there was a show going on later that week in the music hall's main room, so I jumped at that opportunity. The British touring opera company "Opera Della Luna" was presenting two 1 act operettas by Offenbach. These are rarely performed and were recently translated into English by the artistic director of the company. This is comic opera at its best - over the top humor. The shows were " Croquefer or the Last of the Paladins" and "The Isle of Tulipatan". They feature 5 characters in both operettas. The same 5 people appeared in both shows. The acting and singing were top notch. The band of musicians were relegated to the corner. The music reminded me very much of the music found in Gilbert and Sullivan operettas. Apparently Offenbach was familiar with their operettas.

I was not allowed to take pictures in the main hall. However, it can be described thus. The stage has 2 performing platforms. The room is rectangular. The balcony is on 3 sides of the room and is supported by twisted pillars. The chairs on the main floor are moveable, creating a flexible space. On the walls in the upper level you can see remnants of paintings. The hall has an expansive feel. The ceiling is quite high and the space is bare. 

More information on the opera company is at www.operadellaluna.org

I would highly recommend a visit to Wilton's for a show in the bar and the main hall. Occasionally they do offer tours. I was not there at the right time for that. 

I picked up an informative booklet on the history of the hall and houses at the music hall. It is by Carole Zeidman, researcher and historian at Wilton's. She is the expert there.

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